Monday: San Crisogono
Although one would never suspect it approaching this basilica, which sits along the side of a busy city street, this location has a strong claim to being the site of the oldest purpose-built church in Rome. It is connected with the name of Chrysogonus, a fourth century military officer martyred under Diocletian in 304 in northern Italy, near the city of Aquileia. His cult soon became popular in Rome, with his name being included in the Roman Canon. Soon after these persecutions ended, a large hall was constructed on this site, to which an apse was later added. Many archeologists see this as a building intended from the start for Christian worship, apparently built even before the Edict of Milan. Later in the fourth century, further provision for liturgical functions was made, a sign of the increasing level of comfort that Roman Christians felt about publicly expressing their faith. This building apparently lasted until the early twelfth century, as the current building was begun in 1123 somewhat to the right of the original basilica; the left row of columns in the nave stand over the right wall of the original church. The floor of the current basilica dates from around this period, being a good example of cosmateque stonework. Mosaic sections of the floor near the sanctuary depict the heraldic symbols of the Borghese family, added under Scipione Cardinal Borghese. He is largely responsible for the current interior of the building, dating from a renovation in 1623. The cardinal’s name can be found on the pediment over the porch, as well as on the ciborium over the altar. A further renovation was carried out in the mid-1860s, from which the chapel at the end of the left aisle and the choir stalls in the apse are the two most noteworthy additions. This was shortly after the basilica was placed in the care of the Trinitarian Order, who still serve here today.
Address: Piazza Sonnino, 44
Directions: Take the 23 or 870 from the stop at Piazza delle Rovere (at the bottom of the Gianicolo hill) to the stop before Tiber Island. Follow south-east along the Tiber to viale di Trastevere. Take a right and continue to Piazza Belli. The church is on the right.
Or, take the 40 or 64 from Accaioli (in front of S. Giovanni dei Fiorentini) to Largo Argentina and then take tram 8 to the viale di Trastevere.